Tourism

Generally speaking, “tourism” receives a bad press. It’s similar to being a Goth or voting Tory; a fair few do it, but usually do so with a sense of shame. I suppose the stereotype tourist is a brain-wiped member a descending crowd of Japanese or Americans with waddling, pastel coloured clothing, bum bags and noisy cameras consuming everything in its path.

Money extracting traps are, quite understandably, set for this type of person. As a result, and because of the ‘tourist’ stigma, those who see themselves as more esoteric or spiritual travellers are often reticent about activities which, however shabby and clichéd might, nonetheless, lead to learning about places they visit. But if ‘tourism’ includes visiting museums, historical sites, galleries, churches and the like, I’m “in”. Scorning the tatty obtrusive elements of overbearing tourism is one thing, but losing all its context and benefits seems reckless.

While every culture has a history, it doesn’t follow that every country or culture has an appetite for, or expertise in telling its stories. Or, indeed, in selling or ramming them down visitors’ throats. The UK is brazenly adept at wringing every last penny out of such opportunities. The same could be said for most Western Europe countries. In Blighty, we promote and people flock to such unpromising places as Madame Tussauds and Tower Bridge to have their wallets lightened and pictures taken next to cheerfully sanitised, blatantly odd icons. Making very little go an extremely long way seems to be the modus operandi behind the successes of contemporary phenomena like the Harry Potter Experience, or, from further afield, other novel attractions like museums dedicated to quilts (York), chips (Bruges) or barbed wire (Kansas).

At the time of visiting, neither Belgrade nor Sofia seemed geared up for tourists. Belgrade is still recovering from multiple invasions; it’s telling that among the city’s biggest draws are NATO’s 1999 bomb ruins, which look eerie in an otherwise slightly bland but perfectly pleasant part of the city.